Mount Elbrus

What it is

Elbrus is a dormant volcano in the central Caucasus, on the border between Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia. It has two summits: West (5,642 m) and East (5,621 m). Its slopes are glaciated, so even the standard route calls for crampons and an ice axe.

The route

Most people climb from the south, from the Azau glade. Cable cars run up to Garabashi station at 3,847 m; climbers then stay in huts and barrel shelters at about 3,700–4,100 m and make acclimatization hikes. Summit day starts in the middle of the night, and part of the way can be done by snowcat. The final push from the upper huts takes six to eight hours. The northern route is longer and has no lifts.

Season and a tip

The main season runs from June to September; July and August usually bring the steadiest weather. A full program takes 7–10 days, mostly acclimatization. Register your group with the emergency services (MChS) and load a GPS track: in a whiteout the trail vanishes within minutes.